Gauge…or Tension
Wildflower swatch |
The strands…or floats…across the back of the work also help
to even out the overall dimensions of the individual stitch…changing the stitch
silhouette from rectangular to more square in shape. In other words, your
stitch gauge and your row gauge will be almost, if not exactly, equal. Putting
it yet another way, there is no need for knitter’s graph paper when charting
out a stranded pattern. Regular square graph paper will do.
You may have noticed a difference in your gauge/tension when
working on different types of needles. This is also true with stranded
knitting. We’ll talk more about needles later.
Something else to watch for is the difference in gauge/tension
between plain knitting and stranded knitting. This is especially important when
working on project which includes plain stockinette combined with stranded
work…like a stranded yoke sweater. For this reason, it might be necessary to change
needles sizes between the plain stockinette and the stranded work. Most
knitters, who have a difference, are tighter with the stranded work…so the
plain knitting is worked on a smaller needle than the stranded knitting. But
check your own gauge and see if your knitting falls into this category.
Also, a tighter gauge is generally preferred in stranded
patterning. This practice helps to prevent the stranded floats across the back
from peeking through to the patterning on the front….and makes a warmer fabric.
Ok, here’s my cautionary tale about gauge:
After my first introduction to stranded knitting, I was so blown
away with the technique that I brought every Alice Starmore book I could put my
hands on. When The Celtic Collection came out, I could not get wait to get
started. Obvious to Shetland yarn…fingering weight or otherwise…or that silly
little thing called gauge, I decided to tackle Erin.
At that time, there was a Yarns Brunswick mill/outlet an hour or
so from where I lived which had a huge selection of the various lines of yarn spun on site. Soon I was wandering around selecting yarn…by color only,
not by weight or fiber content. Thankfully, the aisle with the best color selection
contained sport weight yarn which was reasonably close to the fingering weight
the pattern called for. Even so, I could not find all of the colors in wool…so
I substituted a silkened cotton yarn for two of the colors. Yeah, I know.
Choosing the 38”-40” size (there are only two choses), I
cast on…so excited.
The pattern has 3 panels of these fabulous Celtic dogs
marching around broken up with 3 gorgeously shaded Celtic knot panels…placing
the knot panels at the shoulder. Part way through the third dog panel, my
sweater was 23” long…the length called for in the pattern. But I hadn’t finished
the third dog panel and was nowhere near the third knot panel for the shoulder.
Not wanting a tunic, I stopped…cutting the poor third dog off at the knees!
Erin front. Note the dog legs at shoulder. Can you pick out the cotton yarn? |
Erin shoulder seam. Note morphed dog legs. |
Somehow I finished the thing.
The sweater I was aiming for: 3 dog panels, 3 knot panels,
40” circumference, 18.5” sleeves,
Gauge: 16 sts and 19 rnds in 2 inches.
Gauge: 16 sts and 19 rnds in 2 inches.
The sweater I ended up with: 2.75 dog panels, 2 knot panels,
48.5” circumference, 19” sleeves. Gauge: 13.5 sts and 14 rnds in 2 inches.
It was the ‘80’s when big sweaters ruled…but that was a bit ridiculous.
Bottom line: check your gauge!
Gauge or Tension Swatches
To avoid this same or similar misadventure, a gauge swatch will have to be worked
to determine the number of stitches and rounds per inch. Although this is
sometimes referred to as the “dreaded gauge swatch”, finding out what your gauge/tension
is BEFORE you work an entire garment will save a lot of heartache...and hugely malformed outcomes. You all know
this. I will spare you the lecture.
As I’m sure you are also aware…gauge swatches need to be a good
size. Large enough to get about 4 in. (10 cm) square without including the
inconsistency of the edges…..and need to be made with the same yarn and needles
you will be using for your project.
In addition, specifically pertaining to stranded work, these swatches need to be worked in the round
as gauge/tension can be different from knitting flat to knitting in the round. It
has to do with getting a different gauge when knitting than when purling.
In an attempt to ease any “dreaded” aspects, think of the
swatch as a way to test out any color changes from the designer’s choices…or to
just see how the design looks in person before you work an entire garment.
Keeping all of this in mind, there are a few ways to finding
tension for stranded work.
The first is a “swatch
hat or cap”, a two-for-one solution made popular by Elizabeth Zimmerman and
Meg Swansen.
With the yarn and needles you plan to use for your project,
cast on a number of stitches equal to a multiple of the total stitch repeat of
the largest motif used in your garment…and enough stitches for a hat.
So for example, if your largest motif has a 16 st repeat and
the required gauge is 32 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) ...or 8 sts = 1 in. (2.54 cm)…and
you want a hat that is approx. 21 in. (54.34 cm) in circumference, then you
would cast on either 160 sts [20 in.
(50.8 cm) and 10 repeats of the motif] or
176 sts [22 in. (55.88 cm) and 11 repeats of the motif].
The idea is to create something useful while also making
something large enough to get a gauge/tension measurement.
The second gauge/tension measurement option is a flat swatch which is worked to simulate
knitting in the round. Like the swatch hat, you cast on a multiple of the
stitch repeat of the largest motif, except you do not need as many repeats. You
will still need 4 in. (10 cm) not including the edges. This swatch is best
worked on a circular needle.
Eastlake flat swatch with early color trials...and not really large enough. :) |
If you use the numbers above, 4 in. (10 cm) at 8 sts per 1
in. (2.54 cm) gives you 32 sts….which is exactly 2 repeats of the motif. Since
you want to have 4 in. (10 cm) away from the edges, you’ll need to cast on 48
sts (16 sts x 3 repeats).
When you get to the end of the row, break yarn(s) and move
the knitting to the other end of the needle…so the first stitch is once again
on the left needle and the right side is facing. Continue in this manner until
you have completed about 5 inches. Steam or wet block the piece and trim the
yarns ends to 1 or 2 inches.
FYI, this is the swatch I use most of the time. As a
designer, it gives me a record of what I have been working on…especially if I
need to send the sample garment off to a yarn company or magazine.
You may have noticed, though, that both of these methods
require purchasing extra yarn to have enough for both the hat or swatch AND the
garment you are planning to make.
An alternative is the speed
swatch which is produced almost exactly the same way as the flat swatch,
except instead of breaking the yarn at the end of the row, the yarns are pulled
back around in a giant loop to the first stitch. Make sure the pulled yarns are
loose enough so the swatch will lay flat for measuring.
This type of swatch is perfect for those times when you are
not sure you have enough yarn for a project. Since you never break the yarn,
you can pull out the swatch and start your garment. My recommendation, though
is to take a quick picture for future reference before you pull it out.
Melimoyu - speed swatch |
I use this method if I am working on a project where a
limited amount of yarn has been sent to me to work on. I have been known to
work up a sample swatch for a client, take a picture, and pull it out. Working
this way, I can send a choice of two or three designs…before I start on a
garment.
Ok, so now you have your gauge/tension measurements. What
happens if what you measured does not match the gauge/tension in your pattern?
Adjusting for gauge is a fairly personal exercise because
everyone knits a bit differently….meaning the stitch that is created is
slightly different with every knitter. Some stitches are taller, some
shorter…some fatter, some thinner.
There are a couple of possible solutions you can try,
though. The first of which is to change needle size, but you probably have
already tried this.
You may not have tried is to change to wooden needles. The
wooden surfaces can provide a bit more friction than metal needles. More
friction, more grab, changed stitch…and hopefully changed gauge.
Also, make sure you are moving your stitches from the tips
of the needles. I am sure you all know this, but the tips of the needles have a
smaller circumference than the main part of the needle. You want to give all of
your stitches to opportunity to grow up to their fullest capacity…so push them
on over to the main part of the needle as soon as they are “born”.
Another possible solution…and one I suggest in my patterns,
is to work toward row gauge. Stitch gauge can be manipulated in blocking if you
are not too far off.
You can also work to stitch gauge…then adjust the length as
necessary.
So that's it for this post. If you have any questions or gentle comments, please add them below.
Next week: Needles Used and Casting On.
Brandon Knitting Designs - website
Brandon Knitting Designs - Facebook
Ravelry - varianbrandon
Twitter - @vbknits
Pinterest - Varian Brandon
Instagram - varianbrandon
So that's it for this post. If you have any questions or gentle comments, please add them below.
Next week: Needles Used and Casting On.
Brandon Knitting Designs - website
Brandon Knitting Designs - Facebook
Ravelry - varianbrandon
Twitter - @vbknits
Pinterest - Varian Brandon
Instagram - varianbrandon
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